Sauron's Eye on the Rainbow Wall
03/20-22/05
More photos of this ascent here
Topo Here
Ammon & Gabriel McNeely
Interview by: Austin
X-Mas & New Year!!!!
I had the opportunity to go to Red Rocks to get some climbing in. Gabe and I were talking about climbing some of the classics, Epinephrine being one of them.
On the way to Vegas I pondered on what route in Red Rocks might be the hardest grade VI.
"I have an idea Gabe, let's do the second ascent of Sauron's Eye", I announced.
What originally started out as a push ascent ended up with us dodging storms for five days and climbing in wet and cold conditions.
Sauron's Eye is on the Rainbow Wall and climbs out the higher and most prominent arching crack on the right face.
Warren Hollinger (one of the best wall climbers at that time) helped with this project ending his climbing career in a disastrous, back breaking epic.
On our way out we were blessed with our new friends who had some "special" cookies for us - Thanks a ton!!
Life is good!!!
I should have known we were in for some serious suffering when I found a bottle of pain killers left on a small shelf on the first pitch.
It was like a message left by someone who knows the next party WILL need them.... didn't take a single one.
The first pitch had a string of shallow beaks in a soft overhanging seam. If you ripped in a thirty foot section you're bones would surly be damaged upon hitting a ledge, looming below you.
When I asked Brian why he only rated it A3+, his reply was:
"Well, that was back when I wasn't comfortable about my abilities. " *griiin*
The second pitch was pretty straight forward. Good knife blades in clean desert rock. Gabe led it , mostly in the dark, he only got off route once, climbing too far above the pendulum point.
Solid fun.
The A4 fourth pitch was wild and sustained. This pitch only gets you 40 feet higher in altitude, but traverses one hundred and seventy feet.
Then it goes out a huge roof. It stormed on us all night after the A4 pitch. The next pitch is a scary, run-out 5.10 face with loose flakes as hand holds.
We had to wait until it dried to climb. I free climbed up and a bit too far right the first go. I down climbed in a wild panic yelling "TAAAKe".
I finally figured out the sequence. A couple of hook moves off the belay.... reach up and grab some good holds.... do a wild looking "chicken scratch" and start free climbing towards a ramp. The entire time trying not to pull a loose block on top of you.
Your first piece of pro is fifty feet off the anchors and is pretty much a shit knifeblade in a horizontal crack.
Then the fun begins. Free climb out the ramp and onto the face, ok holds but VERY exposed.
Continue free climbing up the face on scary, loose holds.... pause every once in a while to fiddle, lasso or bang a crappy piece in.
Brilliant climbing!!!
The last couple of pitches were in a 5.7 gully to the notch on the right side of the wall. Gabe led them both in a speedy manner, while I tried to get circulation in my toes. The wind raged as we scrambled to find shelter.
We spent an airy bivy on top and rapped Brown Recluse in the morning. Gabe took down one of the heaviest pigs I've seen anyone carry.
He told me he was a "monkey, camel AND a mule".
In the parking lot we met some fellow climbers..... Dominic, Roy & Tom. They provided us with beer and cigs.
Gotta love the climbing community........
Austin: So Ammon, when did you first begin to climb?
Ammon: Well, pretty much all my life. We all climb something, whether it's steel, trees or stone. Climbing is something that I have always done and have been having fun doing, for a long time.
Austin: Those are some words of wisdom Ammon, I'll remember that. When did you start "rock" climbing?
Ammon: I guess when I bought my first rope in 95. I've been rapelling and canyoneering since I was like ten. I grew up near Zion.
Austin: Ammon way to beat around the bush, answer the damn question. When is she coming back?
Ammon: No, you can't ask me THAT!! You're the reporter.... ask me something.... what ever.... ask my about my goals, my achievements... you know...... just be a reporter.... faster!!! Dude, Austin? Do you remember when we used to IM each other? Remember when you were using the mouse on the computer and you got a cramp and you were like ooooooohhh, Dad.... My hand hurts. You were a little guy...... look at you now. Be smart brudda... no Austin this is.....
Austin: Uuuuuum, well uuush dude. I'm trying to interview you but my hands just hurt because you talk too much.... and fast!
Ammon: Well, Austin *serious look*
Ammon: if you were professional you would have a digital recorder, and would not have to peck at the keys while I'm talking. *blink*.
Austin: Ok, before you miss your flight to England you damn brit (he was talking with an English accent). Here is my last and final question. How was the shit on Sauron's Eye compared to Yosemite big walls?
Ammon: I've done a fair share of hard routes in both Yosemite and Zion and I think Sauron's Eye is every bit as hard....wait...... dude this is a serious statement right now....Mr. Interview Fucker!!
Austin: Let me just cut to the chase. Is Red Rocks or Yosemite better??
Ammon: *big pause* ......they don't compare - apples and oranges - twigs and berries. Yep, as far as your last question about Sauron's Eye? It's about as dangerous and scary as it gets without being a total fucking lunatic. Did you get that? Did you get that?
Ammon: You know the saying. "There's a fine line between BADass and DUMBass"
Austin: What's the deal with suffering???
Ammon: I got you dude.... with the poof hat!!
Well, that's what comes with getting the job done.... numb toes... numb fingers... aching bones and a wandering mind.
Austin: That was deep man... real deep.
Ammon: Yah, fuck you!! *Starts throwing beer cans*
OOOOK OK OK END TRANSMISION!!!
