RocknClimb.com
~The SouthWest~
Current Records, First One Day, First Ascents & History
Bill Wright's Speed Site
Running the ridge from Prodigal to Moonlight
~Three Routes in a Day~
Photo: Joe "The Bleeder" Auer
Zion -


Two Walls Free in a Day - Moonlight Buttress - Spaceshot
12:25 - Alex Honnold, Chris Weidner - April 5-6, 2008 (Car-to-car: 13:30)

Four Walls in a DayTouchstone Wall - Spaceshot - Monkey Finger - Moonlight Buttress
18:00 - Mike Pennings, Jeff Hollenbach - Springbreak 1999

Four Walls in a Day Touchstone Wall - Spaceshot - Moonlight Buttress - Monkey Finger
22:30 - Doug Heinrich, Conrad Anker - 1992 (Car-to-car... including a lunch on the summit of Moonlight)

Three Walls in a Day - Prodigal Sun - Moonlight Buttress - Lunar Ecstasy
12:00 - Brian McCray, Ammon McNeely - February 22, 2003, (Car-to-car)

Three Walls in a Day - Space Shot, Moonlight Buttress, Prodigal Sun
15:30 - Stoney Richards, Joe Puryear, May 2002, (Car-to-car)

Three Walls in a Day - Touchstone Wall, Spaceshot, Monkey Finger
18:00 - Doug Heinrich, Seth Shaw - 1992

Two Walls in a Day - Touchstone Wall & NE Buttress of Angels Landing
8:00 - Conrad Anker & John Middendorf, 1991 (First Link-up in Zion)
McCray cleaning on the FOD ascent of Latitudes with a Garmin Edge 800                                                                                                   Photo: Ammon McNeely
~Streaked Wall
Rodeo Queen - VI, 5.11, A4
22:18 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - Feburary 26-27, 2006  (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - Mugs Stump & Conrad Anker - April 1990

Tales of the Scorpion  - VI, 5.10, A3+
17:26 - Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely - January 22, 2006 (First One Day Ascent)
First Solo Ascent - Matt Erdmann - October 2-6, 2007 (First Solo of the Streaked Wall)
First Ascent - Dave Webster, Jeff Mayhew & Rick Nelson - April 1990

Latitudes VI, 5.10, A4+
18:40 - "Fly'n Brian" McCray & Ammon McNeely - February 16, 2003 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - Paul Gagner & Eric Brand - May, 1994


Mnt. Moroni
Smoot-Ellison, aka: Cosmic Egg - V, 5.10, C2+
4:10 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - March 2, 2006
?:?? - Doug Heinrich
(First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - Brian Smoot & Les Ellison - April 1983


~Angels Landing
Swiss American - IV, 5.9r, A4
19:?? - McCray & Kurt Arend - February 1999 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - John Middendorf & Xaver Bongard - October 19-22, 1991

Prodigal Sun - IV, 5.8, C2
2:36 - Ammon McNeely & Brian McCray, February 22, 2003 (Three Records in a Day)
Sub-4:00 - Chris Tatum & Clay Usinger, Febuary 2006 (Five Hours ,Car-to-car)
4:44 - Stoney Richards & Joe Puryear - May, 2002  (Three Routes in a Day)
5:00 - Doug Heinrich & Seth Shaw, 1992
7:15 - Joe Puryear (solo) - April 7, 2003
7:50 - Barry Ward & Ron Olevsky - May, 1988  (First One Day & First Hammerles Ascent)
First Ascent - Ron Olevsky (solo) - September, 1981

Lost Angel - V, 5.10, A3
18:41 - Ryan Frost & Scott Greenhalgh - February 25-26, 2006  (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - John Varco & Dave Littman - April 1999

Ball and Chain - V, 5.10, A4
9:07 - Brian McCray & Kurt Arend - October 1, 2003
14:56 - Kurt Arend & Bob Jacobsen, April, 2003 (First One Day Ascent)
First Free Ascent - Brian McCray - October 1, 2003  (One point of aid)
First Ascent - Glenn Randall (solo) - 1978

South of Heaven- V, 5.8, A4
37:14 - Brian McCray, Ammon McNeely & Kurt Arend (bivy in Springdale)
First Ascent - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray & Kurt Arend - September, 2003


~Moonlight Buttress 
Sheer Lunacy - V, 5.9, C2 or 5.12d
3:55 - Doug Heinrich, 2000 (First Free Ascent)
First Ascent - Ron Olevsky (solo) - August, 1992

Lunar Ecstasy - V, 5.9, C2+ (please do NOT cam hook on Zion trade routes)
4:09 - Ammon McNeely & Brian McCray, February 22, 2003 (Three Records in a Day)
First Ascent - Linus Platte & Brad Quinn - April 2-5, 1992

The Dark Side of the Moon
18:00 - Matt Meinzer & Ryan Frost, March 26-27 2006  (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent - ?

Moonlight Buttress - V, 5.12d or 5.9, C1
1:23 - Alex Honnold, April 1, 2008 (Solo, First Free Solo) SICK!!
1:57 - Brian McCray & Ammon McNeely, February 22, 2003  (Three Records in a Day)
2:49 - Jason Kraus & Garret Kemper, Fall 2000
4:30 - Stoney Richards & Joe Puryear - May, 2002 (Three Routes in a Day)
6:18 - Dan Russell & Adam Ezlahpazir, December, 2002
12:00
- Barry Ward & John Middendorf, 1989 Car-to-car (First One Day Asccent)
6:32 - Joe Puryear (solo) - April 9, 2003
First Free Ascent - Peter Croft & Johnny Woodward - April, 1992
First Ascent -  Jeff Lowe & Mike Weiss - October, 1971
Ammon on Desert Shield winner of the Garmin 910xt extreme challenege                                                                                                                      Photo: Chris McNamara
~Bill & Bill's Wall
Swoop Gimp (or be dust)  - V, 5.9 C3

3:40
- Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - December 6, 2005
First Ascent
- Barry Ward & Alan Humphrey

~Monkeyfinger Wall
Monkeyfinger Wall - IV, 5.11+
?:?? - Mike Pennings & Jeff Hollenbach - 1999 (This is my guess of fastest ascent)
First Free Ascent - Drew Bedford & Pokey Amory - May, 1984
First Ascent - Ron Olevsky & Rob Schnelker - May, 1978

~Leaning Wall
Cosmic Trauma - V, 5.10, C3

2:54
- Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - December 7, 2005 (First One Day Ascent)
First Ascent
- Barry Ward & Alan Humphrey - April, 1989

Spaceshot - IV, 5.10 C2

1:36:54
- Brian McCray & Ammon McNeely - October 12, 2003
2:30
- Doug Heinrich & Seth Shaw, 1992
3:23
- Stoney Richards & Joe Puryear, May, 2002 (Three Routes in a Day)
5:35
- Dan Russell & Ryan Sayers, October 2002
3:57
- Ammon McNeely (solo) - 2000
First Ascent
- Ron Olevsky & Dave Jones -1980

~Desert Shield Wall
Desert Shield - V, 5.11, C3

2:57
- Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - December 5, 2005
7:00
- Doug Heinrich & Seth Shaw, 1993
12:00
- Clay Cahoon & Joe Auer, 2001, (Car-to-car)
FOD
-  Brad Quinn, Doug Beyerly & John Middendorf - 1991 (First One Day Asent) - Car-to-Car in daylight
First Ascent
- Drew Bedford & Tim Stack - April 3, 1993
*Note: Eric Rassmusen & Chris Sircello climbed the first five pitches in1992

Disco Inferno - V, 5.10, C2+ or PDD (Pretty Damn Disco)
3:42 - Chris McNamara & Ammon McNeely - March 6, 2006  (First One Day Acent)
First Ascent - Josh Cannon, Calder Stratford & John Middendorf - January 1995

~Cereberus Gendarme
Touchstone - IV, 5.9, C2

1:50
- Doug Heinrich & Seth Shaw, 1992
3:30 -
Chris Tatum & Clay Usinger, April 2006
Sub-4:00
- John Middendorf and Conrad Anker, 1991
4:20
- Joe Auer & Ammon McNeely, 2000 (time is a guess within 10 minutes either way... The Bleeder dropped the watch)
7:24
- Ryan Crochiere & Mike Staton, 2002
First Clean Ascent
- Ron Olevsky (solo) May, 1981 (Name changed to Touchstone at this time)
First Ascent
- Cerberus Wall, Olevsky Route - Ron Olevsky (solo) January 16-17, 1977
*Note: There were a handful of parties who did one day ascents prior to Middenorf and Anker's in 1991

~Great White Throne
Great White Throne, NWF - VI, 5.8, A3

12:00
- Rick Wyatt & Dave Jenkins, 1977 (First One Day Ascent of a Grade VI in Zion)
First Ascent
- Fred Beckey, Galen Rowell & Pat Callis - May, 5-7, 1967

~East Temple
The Fang Spire - V, 5.10, A3

9:00
- Brian Smoot & Kim Miller, 1999
First Ascent
- John Middendorf & Kyle Kopeland - May 22, 1988

*No
te: Brad Quinn, Doug Beyerly & John Middendorf,  had other fast ascents of Zion routes in the early days,
                                                     before they thought about documenting exact time -  only caring about having a good time....
Kurt Arend on South of Heaven                                                                                                                                                  Photo: Brian McCray
Red Rocks -


Three Walls in a Day - Cloud Tower - Original Route, Rainbow Wall - Crimson Chrysalis
13:00 - Jeremy Collins & Ben "Torch" Williams - April 15, 2007 (All Free, car-to car from oak creek lot)

Three Walls in a Day - Levitation 29 - Original Route, Rainbow Wall - Epinephrine
18:15 - Kelly Cordes & Josh Thompson - April 26th-27th, 2007 (base of first route to summit of last - car-to-car 22hrs)

Three Walls in a Day - Levitation 29 - Cloud Tower - Epinephrine (First link-up in Red Rocks)
20:07 - Ivo Ninov & Renan Ozturk  -  March 24, 2004 (time is clocked from the base of the first route and summit of the last)

Two Walls in a Day - Original Route, Rainbow Wall - Levitation 29
15:15 - Josh Thompson & Brent Armstrong -  April 2006  Car-to-car

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


Original Route, Rainbow Wall - V, 5.12b or A1
4:00 - Jeremy Collins & Ben "Torch" Williams - April 15, 2007 (Three Routes in a day)
4:10 - Josh Thompson & Brent Armstrong - April 2006, give or take 10 min. (Two Routes in a Day)
4:30 - Kelly Cordes & Josh Thompson - April 26-27, 2007 (Three Routes in a Day)
First Ascent - Joe Herbst & Larry Hamilton - April, 1973

Cloud Tower - IV, 5.12
1:45 - Renan Ozturk & Ivo Ninov - March 24, 2004 (Three Routes in a Day)
2:00 - Jeremy Collins & Ben "Torch" Williams - April 15, 2007 (Three Routes in a Day)
First Ascent - Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison & Nick Nordblom - Spring 1983

Levitaion 29 - IV, 5.11c
1:40 - Renan Ozturk & Ivo Ninov - March 24, 2004 (Three Routes in a Day)
2:40 - Kelly Cordes & Josh Thompson - April 26, 2007 (Three Routes in a Day)
4:00 - Josh Thompson & Brent Armstrong - April 2006, give or take 10 min. (Two Routes in a Day)
First Free Ascent - Lynn Hill, John Long & Joanne Urioste - May, 1981
First Ascent - Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Bill Bradley - April, 1981

Epinephrine - IV, 5.9
1:06 - Josh Swartz -  Free-Solo, Janurary 2003
1:30 - Erik Roed & Dave Sorric - September, 2003  (Doorknob-to-doorknob in 4 hours, from Dave's house in Blue Diamond)
4:05 - Ivo Ninov and Renan Ozturk - March 24, 2004 (Three Routes in a Day)
4:55 - Kelly Cordes & Josh Thompson - April 27, 2007 (Three Routes in a Day)
5:20 - Bill Wright George Bell, (Car-to-car in 7:30)
First Ascent - Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Joe Herbst - August, 1978
Ammon leading on Rodeo Queen                                                                                                                                              Photo: Chris McNamara
More Information on Zion First Ascents                     A Brief History of Climbing in Zion                       Bigwall.com

John Middendorf's Website
I'm still researching for this page, if you have any info please email me at: Of course, this is not always going to be the most current information... THAT is always changing!!!

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